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  #31  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SN33KY View Post
zip ties work well!

i use that on my m18

[=
Zip ties work on my nitro or my crawler. There will be no ties on my recoil or micro... LOL
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  #32  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Winn View Post
One option could be to remove the shrink wrap, place some thin styrofoam (or foam rubber) on the underside, and re-shrink the ESC...It would give you a flat side, and maybe more mouting options.
Hmmm, good idea there. But even so, the bullet connections still hinder the wires from bending where I might want them to. As much as I would like to remove them, I'am rather hesitant about doing so.

I will stick to my original plan and mount it on the underside of upper deck as a first design and see where I go from there. Redesign would possibly by the method you described.

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  #33  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:16 PM
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What i did when i was running the mamba i put deans on the power wire leads and the same goes for the motor itself......i left the other bullet connector alone.
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  #34  
Old 07-23-2008, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred View Post
What i did when i was running the mamba i put deans on the power wire leads and the same goes for the motor itself......i left the other bullet connector alone.
So what is the other wire used for then ?

I know on my mamba max (on my crawler) the white wire I just snipped off the end and left it on there.

I wonder if I swap it over to micro deans if that would work .. hmm.
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  #35  
Old 07-23-2008, 06:31 PM
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I kept the other wire with the connector still on there........im not a bl mofo so i dont know why its there.......lol.
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  #36  
Old 07-23-2008, 07:09 PM
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I have no idea what the three wire are for either, but you should be able to remove the bullet connectors, extend the leads on the motor, and put the connectors back on.
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  #37  
Old 07-25-2008, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred View Post
I kept the other wire with the connector still on there........im not a bl mofo so i dont know why its there.......lol.
I cut off the connector so it doesnt have a chance to short out on the side of the chassis. Looks bad electrical taped up, but ahh well. I thought about unsoldering it, but in case I ever needed to use it, then its there.

This will be my first time going BL. Brushed is better in a crawler anyways (that is where my mamba is). But for light on-road stuff, BL looks like the better way to go.

I'm pondering ordering in another castle sidewinder combo for my MRS4. There is an Ebay store I found that sells them for around $90-$96 vs $125 at my LHS. So even with $12 shipping and canadian taxes, it should still be cheaper then if I bought it up here.

Then maybe I might be able to keep up to the M18 BL ... nah maybe not.
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  #38  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:08 AM
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Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.
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  #39  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:35 PM
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I just found some plugs today...Deans 3-pin minis. (Part #1003) They could be used for connecting those 3 wire brushless motors, instead of the bullet connectors...I don't think it'll solve your wiring problem, but it would make motor hookup easier.
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  #40  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by alfred View Post
Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.
It does have a few more adjustments, and the shocks are easier to adjust, but I would have to say your M18 handles just as well.
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  #41  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred View Post
Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.
What are you waiting for ...... jump on the bandwagon!


Russ Winn:


Yeah it might help with wire routing. It's just I find when the 3 wires are hooked up to motor, they are too stiff right in that connecting area of the wires.

Oh yeah I still need to get photos taken ... HA. I'll try that tonight.
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  #42  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:48 AM
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Wow man...Those red 4-pin Deans are what I used to use with my 1/10 cars, back in the '80s...I would swap the 2nd pin (next to the groove) to prevent plugging them in backwards...Thanks for the nostalgia.
As far as the brushless wiring, I've never dealt with them, so I'm pretty much out of suggestions for you...I just saw those at the LHS, and thought of your issues.
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  #43  
Old 08-05-2008, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Winn View Post
Wow man...Those red 4-pin Deans are what I used to use with my 1/10 cars, back in the '80s...I would swap the 2nd pin (next to the groove) to prevent plugging them in backwards...Thanks for the nostalgia.
As far as the brushless wiring, I've never dealt with them, so I'm pretty much out of suggestions for you...I just saw those at the LHS, and thought of your issues.
haha nostalgia? ... I just went on google and found that photo...ROFL!

Hmmm I was turning 3 in 1980...
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  #44  
Old 08-05-2008, 03:59 PM
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Well now you know...I'm so far behind the times, it's pathetic !!!
As long as I'm dating myself...I remember brush-on liquid mask, bodies WITHOUT decals or overspray film, the "Hot Trick Stuff", Ascot sprint car conversions, MIP 4wd conversions for RC10's, and Losi only made parts for Associated!!!!....how's that?
Man, I'll be dragged away from brushed motors, Nimh batteries, and AM radio systems kicking and screaming....but I still have fun.
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  #45  
Old 08-05-2008, 07:25 PM
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Hey Nerve- You have any good setup info for concrete/asphalt? ...Mine is pretty stable in the straights, and turns in well, but from the middle of the corner out, it's loose. I'm running 45 shore foams all around, 40wt oil in front, 30wt in rear, front shocks layed down (inside hole), rear shocks are upright (outside hole), and stock 6 degree casters...The stock rubber tires are just as bad, if not worse...I'm thinking the casters may need to be less (4 degree), but if you have a better idea, I'd like to hear it...thanx.
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